sporadic's Turbo Focus build thread [Archive]

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:44 PM

MODS: Please add *DUW* to the thread title! :mdr:

COST
What many have been waiting for..
Some prices do not include shipping, some do. Same with taxes.
I tried to do some formatting.. but the forum entry box just reformats it again.
I'm certain I forgot to include some things so I'm throwing in a range for my bottom line cost.
Although I got good deals here and there I didn't go "cheap" on anything, including the turbo.
I didn't buy some junk yard turbo like some may be thinking.
The turbo has 0 shaft play, spins freely and has relatively low miles (30k).
As you can see the tune is a huge chunk of the cost, and I've included the wideband.
The upcoming spec stage 3 clutch and Torsen LSD will up this cost by at least $1,000.
Look forward to that to-do thread in spring of 2008.
I estimate 150-200 hours went into this project.
Aside from the welding of the oil drain I did everything myself.
If anyone wants additional details posted about any portion of this writeup please don't hesitate to ask.
If any companies are interested in showcasing or beta-testing their products and would like me to perform a writeup PM me and we'll work something out.

Bottom line: ~ $2,400-$2,500

Breakdown
Part Price Location/Description
SCT Tuner $379.00 Lasota Racing, SCT xCal 2
Tune $250.00 Lasota Racing. 2.5 hrs
Dyno time $75.00
MAF.ia $80.00 Ebay.Open-box never used. F7370

IHIRHB-52 turbo $75.00 Used from 1988 Ford Thunderbird TC

Intercooler $80.00 Ebay. Mushimoto, black, 2.5” in/out
Intercooler Piping $72.85 2.5” aluminized kit http://store.racing-solutions.org/
BOV $20.00 Gen 1 Talon.
Air Filter $10.00 3” opening – Steve B.
2-2.5” adapter $1.88 Advance, for turbo outlet
Silicone hoses + clamps $94.53 2x2.5” 90*, 1x2.5” 45*, 13 T-Clamps www.cxracing.com (http://www.cxracing.com)
Other silicone hoses $10.00 Used
BOV hose $5.00 Advance, radiator hose
EVO IC hoses $0.00 Scott W,

Boost Gauge $65.00 And oil + gauge pod, Ford Racing, used
Boost gauge line $6.00 Advance, nylon kit
Oil gauge line $10.00 Advance, copper kit

Injectors $150.00 55# and adapters. Used. Siemens Deka 3172
Exhaust Manifold $198.00 JGS Precision kit. (I weld)
Coolant T's $10.00 $5x2 Napa. Plastic T's. 660-1593
Coolant Hoses $3.00 3ft x $1/ft 3/8” Napa.

Oil Drain Line $2.50 Napa 5/8” OD, red
Oil Feed Line $31.95 Summit racing, Aeroquip Teflon, braided stainless
Tube for oil drain $5.00 Aluminum
Tube for oil drain $5.00 Stainless
Feed line fittings $20.00 Summit racing. Aeroquip, Earl's. Appx
Various copper fittings $55.00 ACE Hardware. All NPT. Appx.

4' straight 3” pipe $19.95 Summit racing. Includes $6 handling fee
3” Magnaflow $81.95 Summit racing. 12649
3” Mandrel bends $80.00 Mandrel Bending Solutions
3” Glasspack $20.00 Summit racing
Band clamp $14.00 Summit racing
3” Flex pipe $37.00 Summit racing, PaceSetter, stainless
Catalytic Converter $25.00 Scott W. Catco high-flow
Header wrap $39.00 Advance

Oil catch can $30.00 Guy from FocalJet, used
PCV Hose $7.68 5/8 Heater hose, 6' @ 1.28
PCV breather $2.50 APC

Ultra Black RTV $5.00
Paint $25.00
Vacuum nipples $6.50 Advance, value pack
Vacuum T's $4.69 AutoZone, value pack
Vacuum connectors $3.99 AutoZone, value pack
Hose clamps $17.00 Advance, stainless, worm style
Stainless bolts $20.00 84 Lumber, various sizes, appx.
Flux core wire $9.00 Lowes, 1lb spool
Solid steel rod $5.00 3/8” for exhaust hangers
Spark Plugs $6.00 Autolite 103 .035" gap

LC-1 Wideband $199.00 Used, www.dynotunenitrous.com (http://www.dynotunenitrous.com)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Total $2,372.97
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Exhaust $316.90
Charge piping $294.26
Tuning $784.00
Turbo $75.00
Gauges $81.00
Oil lines $119.45
PCV/Catch can $40.18
-----------------------------------------------------------------
“Kit-only” cost: $900.00 Not including: exhaust, gauges, tune, paint, etc. Approximate.
Huge amounts of assembly required. :thumb:

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:47 PM

Originally started 7-13-2007 :rules:

This will be my "official" thread for posting the status of my turbo build.
For 9 months now I've been gathering parts and doing research in preparation for this build.
Tomorrow starts my "fab week".
I've taken off all next week to work on my car.
I'll be out of town Wed-Sat morning however, so I probably won't post and I definitely won't be working on the car.
Everyone is welcome to ask questions or make comments!
This is my first dealing with forced induction, but not my first encounter with a wrench if you could guess.
If you think I'm doing something wrong, tell me! I gladly accept advice.
That doesn't mean I'll always follow it of course.
I do respectfully ask that folks stay on topic, mainly so others who may find this thread useful don't have to wade through pages of trash talk.
From tomorrow until the project is complete I plan on posting updates with photos here, so keep checking back!
My setup:
- 2006 Ford Focus zx5 ses. 2.0L Duratec, completely stock
- IHI turbo from '88 Tbird TC 2.3L @ 9.5psi
- 55lb injectors
- 3" exhaust including turbo outlet elbow. Includes cat, flex, and 6"x24" Magnaflow muffler (12649)
- Turbo header kit from JGS Precision Turbo (http://www.jgstools.com). mild steel
- 2.5" intercooler piping
- gen 1 bov(bpv actually) from a Talon
- Black FMIC. 2.5" in/outlets
- Ford Racing boost/oil pressure gauges on pillar
- -3 AN oil feed T'd from the oil sending unit. No restrictor.
- -10 AN oil drain into oil pan
- 3/8" coolant lines
- Oil catch can
- PCV valve from Tbird TC
- Autolite 103 plugs at .035" gap
- SCT tune from LaSota Racing (http://www.lasotaracing.com/dynotune.html) in Columbus, OH
FAQ:
Doesn't somebody make a kit??
Yep. Randy at Focus Sport (http://www.focussport.com) sells them for a mere $4,000.
I'd personally rather have no turbo at all than to spend that much, learn nothing, and barely lift a finger.
That's just not me.
No offense to those who don't have the tools for the job.
Why the IHI?
#1 it was cheap, and spurred on this project.
#2 even after extensive research I believe this is the ideal turbo for my application.
I could be wrong, but at the moment I don't believe I am.
It will spool amazingly fast, and I want "usable" boost through all my RPM band.
I have no interest in a high-boost, high-rpm only turbo.
If for some reason the IHI isn't enough for me I can fairly easily switch to a T3 later.
55lb Injectors are overkill
That's the idea. Easier to tune with according to my tuner.
He actually recommends 60lb.
A 3" exhaust is overkill
#1 Turbocharged engines do not like backpressure link an N/A engine does.
#2 I want the quietest exhaust possible without restricting air flow.
I feel this should be a pretty quiet setup.
If not I'll add another small Magnaflow or a glass pack as a resonator.
How much work are you doing?
I'm fabricating: the entire exhaust, including the turbo manifold and turbo exhaust elbow.
The intercooler piping. I'm using 2.5" mild steel for now because I can't weld aluminum if the need arises.
I may make that switch later.
The ambient air piping, including a new air inlet for the intake side of the turbo.
All assembly.
I'm NOT doing:
Any milling to ensure flat mating surfaces for the exhaust manifold and associated welded parts.
The welding of the oil return nipple to my aluminum oil pan.
The tuning.
Bye bye clutch?
Well I suppose that's possible.
According to Randy at Focus Sport, the stock clutch is OK around 9psi.
I'm expecting to have to upgrade my clutch within a year or two.
When that happens I'll probably opt for a Torsen Limited Slip Differential at the same time.
Can you provide a parts list with costs?
Will do.
I'll update my spreadsheet soon and make it available for download.
If there's enough interest I'll make a web page.
What is the safe boost level of the Duratec?
According to Randy at FS, anything over 11psi is crossing the line of longevity.
He has customers with over 30k miles on a 12psi kit.
I'll be at a max 9.5psi.
Do you have any sponsors?
Nope. Believe me I tried.

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:48 PM

Day 1
Start time: ~12pm
End time: ~12am
Removed stock exhaust manifold.
Fabbed the ambient air inlet elbow from 2.5" mild steel tube and a 2" (more like 2 1/8") flat exhaust flange and painted it.
Welded the turbo manifold, T3 flange, and tack welded the two together to double check fitment. (ok more like 100x check)
Mock fitted the intercooler.
Issues:
The turbo's exhaust elbow is going to be a pain, and definitely not optimal angles. Good thing I'm using 3" tubing.
The power steering line (plastic) runs right where I want to mount my intercooler.
The turbo compressor outlet is about 1" away from my heater core coolant lines. They'll get rerouted so I'll have more room to allow for engine movement.
There are two plastic air redirectors, for lack of a better term, on either side of the radiator and I was hoping to just remove them for intercooler room.
Upon further inspection they look more useful that I thought.
Looks like I'll be cutting them to accomodate the intercooler instead of just removing them.
Nice suprises:
After welding the header and T3 flange together I mounted it and the turbo together to make sure everything still fit nicely, especially the ambient elbow.
I seemingly had more room after everything was welded.
I know there's an explaination, but I'm just happy the ambient elbow still fit!
Rustoleum 1200* paint is awesome. After around 6 months and thousands of miles it's still on my exhaust manifold like the day I sprayed it on!
The only thing flaking were places that were not properly removed of surface rust.
[I did this experiment solely to decide between Rustoleum and Duplicolor Ceramic high-temp paints to paint my header and turbo]
I say Rustoleum wins, but the Duplicolor is darn close.
Surface prep before painting is everything!
PICS
Note: I have 2 turbos: 1 with 70k miles that's dirty and ugly and needs rebuilt.. that's what's in the pics and what I'm test fitting with.
The other has only 30k miles and looks great.
That one will be in the "final install before tune" pics!
Ambient elbow (fresh air side of turbo)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ambient1.jpg
Elbow painted and fitted:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ambient_installed1.jpg
Header tack welded and flange opening cut:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/header_cut.jpg
Header welded. Will get cleaned up a LOT before install. And painted.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/header_welded_part.jpg
T3 style flange:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/turbo_flange1.jpg
Intercooler test fit:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/intercooler_mock.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:49 PM

Day 2
Start time: ~2:30pm
End time: ~12:30am
Entire day spent on the turbo exhaust elbow and downpipe! :drugs:
Space is very tight, and I'm having to test fit many, many times.
I bet I mounted/unmounted the elbow 30 times today.
The end result isn't all that pretty, but the welds are good even though they don't look perfect.
Paint will do wonders.
Today was a great day to work on the car.
The rain kept it cool most of the day.
Issues:
I got "sunburned"! I welded in a T-shirt yesterday. That was dumb.
My left froearm is pretty red. My wife made me wear a long sleeve shirt when welding today.
I sure didn't argue. :laugh:
The angle for the exhaust elbow was a beast.
Routing around the clutch/throttle cables (I think.. I didn't actually trace them) made for an extra 90* bend. Bummer.
My huge Magnaflow muffler doesn't have as many mounting location options as I thought. Maybe not an issue.
The stainless steel pipe didn't like the same heat setting as the aluminized steel.
The stainless melts at a much lower heat, and that led to some ugly welds but they ended up ok.
The stock exhaust is one big piece after the flex pipe.
I'd have to cut it to finish the exhaust, so it's getting put off for now.

Nice suprises:
The portion of the stock IHI exhaust elbow that I welded my new elbow to wound up being far easier to weld to than I anticipated.
That portion is 1/4" cast steel.
The trick was to keep the heat directly on the thicker steel and let the pool flow down and consume the thinner metal.
I can clamp the ground of my MIG welder to the base adjuster of the vise!
The current flows very well through the vise, so no need to keep changing the position of the ground!
Next:
Still need a short section on the downpipe.
That will have a second 02 sensor bung for a wideband, and a flange to mount to the cat.
Intercooler piping.
I wanted to do the entire exhaust, but it looks like I'll put it off until the final install.. either later this month or August.
Paint. All bare metal will get painted.
Anything that gets hot will get high-temp paint, and then baked on the grill for a while to help the curing process.
PICS
Official soft drink of the sporadic turbo build:
Ironically the plastic Coke cup is my "outside" cup.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PepsiJazz.jpg :clap:
Exhaust elbow from above.
Notice the stuff I have to route around.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ExhaustElbow_TestFit1.jpg
This is why I had to create a whole new elbow.
The stock IHI exhaust elbow points the wrong direction for my application.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ExhaustElbow_vs_stock1.jpg
New 3" elbow vs stock 2".
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ExhaustElbow_vs_stock2.jpg
3" PaceSetter flex pipe vs stock flex.
The stock flex has an inner diameter of 1.5"! :shocked:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Flex_vs_stock.jpg
Testing the necessary heat setting to weld the 1/4" cast steel to the 14ga aluminized steel.
I was floored I got it right the first try.
Actually, I was so shocked that I didn't believe it was an ideally strong weld the first try...
So I proceeded to take a hammer to it. Welds didn't budge. :clap:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/HammeredElbow1.jpg
Today's final product, the downpipe.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Downpipe1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Downpipe2.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Downpipe3.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:49 PM

Start time: 11:30am
End time: 3:00am
Day 3
Well I didn't work on intercooler piping today.
I got an itch to work on the exhaust so I did.
I hacked off the stock exhaust and started with my own.
I spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to mount this monster Magnaflow muffler I bought.
In retrospect I kinda wish I would have either gone shorter, or more narrow..
Shorter would have fit in the position of the stock resonator..
More narrow and I could have placed it where I thought I was going to, and more importantly higher and tighter under the car.
This beast is going to hang down a bit. Maybe 2" max.
No baja competitions for me I guess. :grin:
My car isn't lowered so I'm not worried about it.
The catalytic converter was a pain to position..
This was due to having to move the muffler closer to the front of the car because to lack of width where I originally wanted to mount it.
I had to trim a couple of the corners of the cat to help with fitment.
I ended up cutting out the 2 stock hangers to fit the cat in that spot.
I'll reuse those same hanger rods but I'll widen them to accomodate the cat size.
I also ended up welding the 2nd O2 sensor bung in the front of the cat.
That isn't what I originally had in mind, but I think it'll work fine.
I started painting parts today!
Anything that gets really hot got painted with Rustoleum 1200* paint.
I also had some Ford Twilight Blue that I picked up from Advance for like $1 a while back so I painted some other stuff with that.
The blue doesn't really match my car, but it looks awesome anyway. :grin:
Everything looks 100x better painted.
Paint prep:
All parts, even if they "looked" clean, got at least a thurough scrub with mineral spirits.
Many parts needed a wire brush or bench grinder wire wheel taken to them first.
After the parts actually look like metal again is when I use the mineral spirits.
Then a final wipe down with a paper towel to confirm no dirt is left.
News!
After a revelation I emailed my tuner and he said this will work just fine:
I'm going to leave everything from this build installed, he's going to mail me an SCT xCalibrator 2 unit with 3 "starter" tunes in it.
Basically it will handle my 55lb injectors and disable the 2 rear O2 sensors.
I want to run around for a couple weeks with the turbo plumbed up, but the wastegate disconnected so I don't actually build boost.
That way I'll have plenty of time to fix any type of leak before driving to my tuner for the "real" tune.:clap:
Tomorrow:
I really think I'll work on intercooler piping this time!
I'll also be spending time online and phone ordering last minute parts.
PICS
First off.. you turbo guys.. is this piece I'm pointing at supposed to be loose?
The actual shaft has NO play and spins freely.
EDIT: Yes this is supposed to be loose.
It snugs down when tightened.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbine_exhaust_point.jpg
Cool air side:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbine_intake.jpg
Tiny turbo!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Holding_turbo.jpg
Downpipe is complete minus paint!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Downpipe_complete.jpg
As requested, a pic of my stock engine.
Ignore the lack of exhaut manifold. :grin:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Engine1.jpg
Header complete!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Header_unpainted1.jpg
...
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Header_unpainted2.jpg

.. and painted!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Header_painted2.jpg
Paint:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Rustoleum_paint.jpg
Muffler hangs down a bit:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Magnaflow_hang1.jpg
Painted parts:
Yes that's a gen 1 Talon bov sporting Ford blue.
I'll try to get better pics of the blue tomorrow.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Painted_parts2.jpg
Stock 2006 Focus exhaust:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Stock_Exhaust2.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:50 PM

Day 4
Start time: ~11:00am
End time: ~3:00am

Man this day flew by!
I spent a decent part of the day on mounting the intercooler.
I started today by removing the entire stock air intake so I could move forward with the intercooler plumbing.
I nearly had a heart attack when I saw the crazy shape of the stock MAF. :wallbash:
I also didn't realize it narrowed to 2" either. I just measure one side of it and that was 2.5" (out) and the other side is 3" OD (in)... just too big for my air filter to clamp directly to it.
So I'm standing there holding this MAF, thinking there's NO way I can use this with my pipe selection... and I just ordered my starter tune from LaSota racing!
The 2.5" side of it doesn't clamp at all, but bolts to the air box instead.
I look around and what do I see?? A stock EVO rubber air intake hose!
The filter-side of the EVO hose fits perfectly to the filter-side of my MAF housing!:clap:
There are 2 extra vacuum ports that I'll have to plug, and a much larger hole that I am assuming is for the BPV recirculation line.
At any rate, it will sure work for now! Thanks Scott(evobluebyyou)!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/EVO_Focus_Intake1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/EVO_Focus_Intake2.jpg
A tip on the stock intake removal:
Loosen these 2 bolts before trying to pull out the intake!
Once those are loose and the hoses are disconnected the upper box part pulls off, exposing the MAF hosing which is bolted to the body.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Intake_remove1.jpg
MAF bolted:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Intake_remove2.jpg

Once I got the stock intake removed I grabbed a 90* 2.5" silicone hose to try on the throttle body - no go!
It's just over 2.5"..
Lo and behold what do I have? A stock EVO elbow that happens to fit perfectly! :thumb2:
I cut it to fit my needs after I took this pic.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/EVO_hose.jpg
The promised pic of the Ford Twilight blue:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Gen1_bpv_painted.jpg
My intercooler came with 3 nuts welded at the bottom and top.
I had to grind down the top ones in order for it to fit properly:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_ground.jpg
After a trip to the hardware store for some bolts (in the wife's car) I mounted the intercooler.
My brackets are made from stock EVO intercooler pipe brackets!
*warning* If you ever grind/cut aluminum do it outside if you can!
Aluminum goes airborne more than steel, but mainly it "shaves" off in little tiny slivers that get EVERYWHERE!!
Definitely not good for the lungs, or the freshly poured Pepsi Jazz. Doh!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_mounted.jpg
I took care of the Power Steering line issue by unhooking it from the 2 plastic brackets in front of the radiator and pushing it up onto the "ledge" above it.
Then I zip-tied it to a wire loom already present there.
Driver side:
(tie is red)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PS_line_tied_left1.jpg
Passenger side:
(tie is red)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PS_line_tied_right1.jpg

Moving on to the upper intercooler pipe..
I didn't get to the lower pipe today. I started laying stuff out though.
Gen 1 bpv mount welded:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Gen1_bpv_mount.jpg
Full shot of upper IC pipe:
It's also painted twilight blue now.
Hole is for the boost gauge bung.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_upper_pipe2.jpg
I bought a kit from Advance Auto Parts for $5 or $6 for my boost gauge.
It has a male 1/8" NPT fitting at the end.
I happened to have an extra 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter, so I made a bung out of it.
I drilled a 1/2" hole in the IC pipe, cleaned it, applied a liberal amount of Ultra Copper sealant and threaded it in!
I think it should work nicely!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Hardware_boost_bung.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_upper_pipe3.jpg

I will be out of town the next 3 days!

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:51 PM

Shot of the car:
The lighting in my garage is terrible for photos.
I had just been welding, so there's crud in the air too.
It was really late so I had the garage door shut so I don't disturb the neighbors.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Car.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:51 PM

Day 5
Start time: ~1:00pm
End time: ~1:00am
Today started off really slow.
Yesterday I drove back from South Carolina after seeing my bro-in-law's basic training graduation.
I've been dragging for most of the day, but did manage to get 90% of the intercooler piping done.
Tomorrow I'll finish it up by fully welding the pipes and painting them.
I also baked most of my high-temp painted parts in the grill to help curing and lessen the stinky curing process.
I spent the morning running around buying various parts.
My local Napa sells exhaust pipe by the foot, so I bought some extra 2.5" and I'm glad I did.
I also bought 24" of 5/8" oil hose that's good to 200*F...
Anybody know if this will suffice for an oil drain line?
I think I'll run it and if it seems to deform etc I'll buy some silicone online.
The intercooler piping was definitely a challenge.
There is very little room to work with, and fat 2.5" pipe doesn't help.
Numerous times today I asked myself why I used 2.5" vs 2"! :wallbash:
For my relatively low power levels 2" would have worked just fine.
Tomorrow should wrap up the IC piping, and I hope to get a decent start on the exhaust.
PICS
Lower IC pipe:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_pipe_lower1.jpg
Lower IC pipe and ambient pipes crossing:
There was no way around this.
They don't actually touch.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Pipes_crossing.jpg
Ambient piping:
Man this was a huge pain.
(before BPV pipe)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Ambient_pipe1.jpg
Ambient piping again:
Shot of the EVO inlet pipe on the stock Focus MAF housing.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Ambient_pipe2.jpg
Ambient pipe with upper IC pipe:
Radiator hose will serve to connect my BPV.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Ambient_pipe3.jpg
BPV return pipe welded:
This is where I stopped for the night.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Ambient_pipe_bpv.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:52 PM

Day 6
Start time: ~2:00pm
End time: ~8:00pm

Short day today.
I welded up the intercooler piping and started painting.
I went ahead and clear coated the Twilight Blue (DupliColor brand) with DupliColor Truck & SUV clear coat and I'm happy with the results.
I have no idea what is supposed to make it Truck & SUV.
I used a satin black anti-rust paint as a primer. (ColorPlace from Wal Mart)
I guess we'll see how tha works out.
I started fitting pieces of the exhaust but haven't made a single weld yet after the down pipe.
PICS
IC pipes:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_pipes1.jpg
IC pipes:
Ambient pipe is primered.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IC_pipes2.jpg
IHI compressor housing after clear coat:
I might replace this blurry pic later.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IHI_cleared.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:52 PM

Day 7
Start time: ~6:00pm
End time: ~10:30pm
Today I reinstalled the intercooler piping to see if they were going to be in the way of the oil return line.
Luckily they are not.
My friend/coworker Dan will be welding an aluminum 5/8" OD pipe to my cast aluminum oil pan for a drain.
Dan built a 3-wheeled Vortex and it's now on the road!
I got to ride in it today and it's sweet! :grin:
http://www.briery.com/vortex"]Dan's (Dan's) Website
It will need to be 90* to properly clear the drive shaft.
Before I dropped the oil pan to take it to Dan tomorrow I installed the necessary plumbing at the oil sending unit for the oil feed and oil pressure gauge.
The sending unit is 1/4 NPT and hardware can be found at ACE Hardware.
I used Ultra Copper high temp gasket stuff to seal the threads.
Plumbing hardware includes: 2x 1/4" FPT T's, 2x 1/4" NPT double-sided threaded sections to mate the 2 T's, 2x 1/4" NPT -to- 1/8" FPT adapters, and a 90* 1/8" NPT -to- -3AN adapter.
One of the adapters if for the oil pressure gauge, and the other is for the oil feed line.
My oil feed line is Teflon with a stainless steel cover, made by Aeroquip.
I still have to cut it to length and install the swivel ends.
(FYI: FPT means Female NPT)
Removing the sending unit made the the installation of the T's etc very easy.
The T's will NOT have room to turn without at least loosening the 4 bolts holding in the sending unit.
Removing the oil pan was pretty easy.. installing it looks to be more challenging as I may need to loosen the transmission in order to properly align it and for the gasket RTV to adhere properly.
The oil pan fits snugly between an engine plate on the passenger's side, and the tranny.
Once all bolts are removed holding in the oil pan are removed (they are pretty obvious, no hidden bolts) the oil pan can be removed.
I gently pried at one side until it budged and seperated from the block..
Then I tapped that side back up to meet the block, and did the same on the other side.
Once the seal was broken all the way around the oil pan will pull down with minor prying.
Tomorrow I need to find the PCV valve!
It's apparently behind the intake manifold...
I'll be installing a PCV valve from an 88 Tbird.. assuming I can make it fit.
PICS
This one is for Dan so he can visualize what I need:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_drain_mock2.jpg
55lb Siemens Deka 3172 injectors and wiring harness adapters:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Injectors.jpg
MAFia for the 2005+ Ford:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/MAFia.jpg
Oil feed/gauge hardware:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_brass_Ts1.jpg
Oil sending unit:
Held in by 4x 10mm bolts.
Green thing is the oil temp sensor.
Threads are 1/4" NPT
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_sending_unit1.jpg
Sending unit removed and plumbing installed:
TIP: when using an RTV style sealant, leave the first thread bare and then you can liberally apply the RTV to the rest of the mating threads.
This way the RTV won't squeeze out INTO the pipe.
Who cares if it squeezes out the outside!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_sending_unit3.jpg
Sending unit and hardware reinstalled:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_brass_Ts3.jpg
Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from driver's side.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Rotating_assembly1.jpg
Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from passenger's side.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Rotating_assembly2.jpg
Timing chain.
Passenger's side.
Here you can see the plate mentioned previously.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Timing_chain.jpg
Piston, third from the driver's side.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Piston3.jpg

I took pics of the oil pan removed, but apparently got oil on the lens of my cam so the pics were blurry! :wallbash:
Will post oil pan pics when I get it back from Dan.

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:53 PM

Day 8
Start time: ~6:45pm
End time: ~10:15pm
Today was another short weekday.
I cleaned and painted my oil catch can.
It was originally chromed, but I personally don't like chrome and it didn't match anything under the hood and stood out like crazy.
I ground off any loose chrome and cleaned it using mineral spirits.
I painted it satin black, which shouldn't really stand out but look nice.
I mounted my MAFia to the battery tray with velcro.
Part of that is so it can be removed to adjust when necessary, and I may go to a lightweight battery later on so no need to permanently mount it to the battery tray.
I installed the 55lb injectors.
Aside from having to huff a lot of gas fumes, this was one of the easiest things I've done so far.
Two 10mm bolts hold in the fuel rail.
Each injectors has a small metal clip that easily pops off using 2 flat head screwdrivers.
That metal clip goes on the new injectors.
I also removed all the stock spark plugs and coated the threads with anti-sieze and then reinstalled them.
I don't want any suprises when I go to get my car tuned, and siezed spark plugs definitely fit that category!
I gapped the Autolite 103 plugs to .035" and set them in the passenger seat so I won't forget them when I go to get my car tuned.
Finally tonight I installed one of the -3AN reusable, swivel hose ends to my oil feed line.
I then ran a test route for the line, screwing the one mounted hose end to the oil sending unit.
This way I can get a clear idea of how much line I have to trim from the 6' section it comes in.
I'll install the other hose end after I trim of the excess.
PICS
Catch can before painting:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Catch_can_chrome.jpg
Catch can after painting:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Catch_can_black1.jpg
Autolite copper plugs gapped at .035"
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Autolite_103.jpg
Stock injectors:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Injectors_stock.jpg
55lb vs stock injectors:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Injectors_55vsStock.jpg
55lb injectors installed with wire adapters:
The 55lb injectors have a plug that works for the Zetec, but requires and adapter for the Duratec.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Injectors_55_installed2.jpg
Oil feed line:
Blurry pic of the day.
Directions on how the hose ends are installed: Aeroquip reusable hose end pdf (http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/jc125.pdf)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_feed_line.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:54 PM

Day 9
Start time: ~5:30pm
End time: ~10:45pm
Dan finished up my oil pan a day early!
I'm quite happy with how the return tube turned out!
I ended up trimming it down about 2".
Today I got the oil pan reinstalled, and that's about it.
Cleaning the old oem RTV off took a while.
I cleaned the gasket surface about 3 times with mineral spirits before applying the new RTV and installing the pan.
The Haynes manual states to remove the transmission in order to remove the oil pan. I did not.
It was a tight fit, but it does come out and go back in without removing the tranny.
The only concern would be proper sealing of the pan against the timing cover.
I suppose I'll find out soon enough if I did it correctly. Seems ok at first glance.
I started removing the intake manifold.. man what a pain.
I'm revamping the stock PCV system so all air is from and back to the atmosphere.
That way the cruddy oily fumes won't gunk up my intake tract and at the same time throw off my tune.
Assumming all goes well my tune date is Friday August 3rd!
I plan on working like a mad man this weekend to get the car completed.
What's left (off the top of my head):
- Exhaust from the cat back, using mandrel bends but nothing is welded or cut to length yet
- Reassemble "good" turbo
- Route oil feed a return lines
- Splice into coolant lines and route to turbo (one of the last things I do)
- Install gauges and route lines. (Boost and Oil Pressure)
- Redo PCV system
- Reinstall and clamp intercooler piping
- Install base "no boost" tune

PICS
Oil pan with drain tube:
Before trimming the tube.
It's slightly below the oil line.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_pan1.jpg
Pan with baffle installed:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_pan_wbaffle2.jpg
Oil pan installed:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_pan_installed3.jpg
A couple of random pics of the test-fit turbo from beneath the car:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_bottom1-1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_bottom2.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:54 PM

Day 10
Hard to believe I've been at this for 10 days now.
Start time: ~6:00pm
End time: ~11:15pm

Today I said goodbye to my PCV system.
I'll be running no true PCV valve, but a modified PCV valve with no valve. (see pics)
I cut the very bottom off the stock PCV valve, which exposed the metal valve and springs which fall right out.
Air now flows freely though the uh, un-valve.
Both the valve cover and crankcase hoses will run to a catch can with a breather filter on it.
I'm still deciding whether or not to "Y" the two hoses into the same port and use the 2nd port for the breather valve, or drill and tap a hole in the top and add a 3rd port for the breather filter.
Opinions welcome.
Intake manifold removal tips:
- First thing, assuming you have an air compressor, blow out all dust and dirt away from the manifold and surrounding areas.
You really don't want junk falling into the head.
- Have an extendable magnet handy. Makes reinstalling the bolts much easier, and for grabbing the bolts when removing so they don't fall to unreachable places.
Also great for when you drop the 10mm socket, the 6" extension, or both.
- All the primary 10mm manifold bolts can be reached with a straight 6" socket extension.
No bendy knuckles needed, as I tried to begin with but just made it harder on myself.
- Back out the 2 10mm bolts on the fuel rail at least 1/4". This provides necessary wiggle room to remove the intake manifold.
- Save removal of the knock sensor bolt until after the manifold is unbolted. Much easier to reach.
- Plug the knock sensor electrical connector back in before bolting up the manifold.
- Don't forget to reinstall the little copper tube for the EGR.. unless you just like practice removing and reinstalling the manifold.
Yes I did that. :wallbash:

PICS
Intake manifold removed.
The blueish thing near the center of the pic is the PCV valve.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Intake_manifold_removed1.jpg
Underside of intake manifold.
The round blue gasket on the far left seals around the EGR port.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Intake_manifold_removed2.jpg
PCV valve.
It's possible to remove the valve without removing the black cover, but removing that cover makes it much easier.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_valve1.jpg
Black plastic cover removed:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_cover_hole.jpg
EGR port. Sans copper tube.
Copper tube must be removed to remove intake manifold.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/EGR_hole1.jpg
Back side of black plastic cover with PCV valve installed.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_cover1.jpg
Stock Duratec PCV valve.
The little black plastic retaining ring is a pain to remove.
I managed not to break it, but it's fairly fragile.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_valve2.jpg
PCV valve with bottom cut off.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_valve_cut1.jpg
Contents of PCV valve, in order.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_valve_cut3.jpg
Intake manifold port plugged.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Intake_manifold_plug.jpg
New PVC hose installed but not trimmed yet.
Catch can isn't mounted, so the hose isn't running to anything yet.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/PCV_new_hose1.jpg
Knock sensor.
It's the thing in the middle that's not bolted yet.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Knock_sensor.jpg

Next:
- Exhaust

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:55 PM

Day 11
Start time: ~7:00pm
End time: ~1:30am

Well I was hoping to finish up the exhaust today, but I'll have to finish up tomorrow.
My plan was to just work through the night but I'm too tired.
I have most of it done, just the last angle left to do and then fully weld the tack welds.
Since I'm using flux core wire I'll be painting the exhaust, even though most of it is stainless steel.
The "tip" will not be painted, but instead I used the wire wheel on my bench grinder to polish it.
The exhaust is completely from scratch..
The mandrel bends are "seconds" from www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com.
They sell seconds for $5/bend for aluminized or $7/bend for stainless steel.
Don't take this price as gospel though. If they change it they change it.
All of the hangers I'm having to fab too.
It would have been far easier to purchase a cat back, but if you haven't noticed I'm a bit stubborn like that.
I plugged the hole in the EVO section of my air intake.
A cap from a mini can of WD-40 fit absolutely perfect.
Hey, sometimes you have to improvise! :)
Not many pics today..
PICS
WD-40 cap in intake:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/WD40cap2.jpg
Exhaust:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Exhaust1-1.jpg
Polished but dirty stainless steel "tip":
3" is plenty big enough of an exhaust tip.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Exhaust2-1.jpg
1 of 5 custom hangers I have to make:
I'm using a 3' section of 3/8" round steel that I cut into pieces.
So far it's working great, but tedious work.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Hanger.jpg
Goals tomorrow:
- Finish exhaust
- Assemble turbo
- Run oil lines
- Clamp intercooler piping
Sunday:
- Coolant lines to turbo
- Install gauges
- Load base tune
- Other stuff I've forgotten about
An ambitious schedule for sure!
I really want my car on the road Monday, and tuned Friday.
For now, I need sleep!!

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:55 PM

Day 12
Start time: ~11:00am
End time: ~1:30am
I finished up the exhaust today.
It took way, way longer than I anticipated.
Getting everything aligned just right by myself, on the garage floor, and making my own hangers from scratch was pretty tough.
I ran into an alignment problem with the IHI wastegate.
Apparently I had the test-fit turbo all tweaked and didn't even notice it.
So tomorrow I have to figure out a way to get my good one aligned properly.
I needed the compressor outlet to face a different direction than on the Tbird so I turned it.
I'll post tomorrow what I come up with.
I also weighed parts today since I'm basically finished with all fab work.
Measurements are with a bathroom scale, so accuracy is definitely not dead on.
Stock:
Exhaust: 31.4 lb
Header: 17.4 lb
Plastic air intake stuff: 7 lb
Total: 55.8 lb
Turbo:
IHI turbo: 12.8 lb
Header: 9.4 lb
Down pipe: 5.8 lb
Cat: 6.4 lb
After-cat: 23.2 lb
Intercooler: tbd
IC pipes: 15.2 lb (steel and painted)
Total: 72.8 lb
Total does not include weight of couplers, clamps, air filter, oil lines, brass fittings, gauges, and intercooler.
Estimated added weight: ~40 lb
PICS
Mid section of exhaust:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Exhaust1-2.jpg
Cat with new hanger.
Looks odd but works great.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Cat_hanger.jpg
Full exhaust painted:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Exhaust2-2.jpg
Wastegate misaligned!
Life goes on, will fix tomorrow.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Misaligned_WG.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:56 PM

Day 13
Start time: ~2:15pm
End time: ~10:00pm
Well I didn't finish today, but I'm definitely getting close.
Tomorrow would be nice, but Tuesday night is looking more realistic.
Most everything remaining now is assembly. :)
The toughest thing left is installing the gauges, and I don't think that will be too bad.
So all fabrication should be complete as of today.
The last thing I had to weld was a short piece of 5/8" OD stainless steel tube to the stock Tbird oil drain flange.
I think I had a bad ground and therefore my welds don't look as pretty as they should.
The big thing today was modifying the IHI wastegate actuator bracket to fit the wastegate arm as it should.
A couple new holes drilled and a part ground down and now the fitment is great!
I didn't think to take a before and after pic.
I assembled the turbo today including the 1/4" NPT piping for the coolant lines.
One runs pretty darn close to the exhaust inlet so I'll be watching that line closely to see if it needs insulated.
As for gaskets, I ended up not using one between the turbo and the compressor housing.
A guy from the Tbird forums, Sluggo, was nice enough to send me some IHI gaskets.
I was able to use the one for oil drain flange. Thanks!
I also installed the catch can.
I'm not sure I like the setup, but it's going to stay like that for now.
I didn't have the space I thought I did.
Oh well, it might end up working just fine and I never touch it again.

PICS
Oil drain line:
Flange is the stock IHI, minus the flex metal tubing.
EDIT: This didn't seal well and seeped oil slowly. Much RTV helped. :)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_drain1.jpg
Assembled IHI turbo
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo1.jpg
Here you can see how much better the wastegate aligns.
It's disconnected on purpose until I arrive at LaSota Racing for my dyno tune.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo2.jpg
Oil catch can:
I'll take a couple more pics of it tomorrow.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Catch_can.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:57 PM

Day 14
Start time: ~5:30pm
End time: ~11:45pm
Oil pressure and boost gauges are installed!
That took the majority of the evening.
My oil pressure gauge line is copper, and that proved to be annoying to deal with.
Unless your local drag strip requires a metal oil pressure line I recommend nylon/plastic.. it's so much easier to route.
I remounted my intercooler and upper IC pipe, and tied in the boost gauge.
I wanted to get the turbo mounted tonight, but found out I can no longer fit the turbo from the underside of the car since adding the coolant fittings.
I have to remove the turbo manifold, set the turbo in, mount the manifold, and then mount the turbo.
I stopped on the last couple nuts of the manifold because of the time.
I nearly rounded a manifold nut.
Being this close to complete I was getting nervous... but it finally came off nicely and I even had another spare nut that will take it's place.
I still feel tomorrow could be the day, but it will be a busy evening for sure!
What's left:
- Mount turbo manifold
- Mount turbo
- Clamp IC pipes
- Clamp ambient pipes and make hanger of some sort for air filter end.
- Install exhaust. Still need to tweak one of the exhaust clamps for proper seal
- Oil feed and return lines. Return line is super easy clamp on. Feed should also be simple.
- Coolant lines. Also easy. I'm tying into the heater core feed and return lines and because of the angle of my car there's no coolant in them. :)
- Load base tune
Sounds like a lot but most should go quickly.
PICS
Another shot of the oil catch can:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Catch_can2.jpg
I routed all lines through a hole in the door frame and wrapped them in a simple plastic wire loom.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Gauges3.jpg
Oil pressure gauge line:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_pressure_line1.jpg
Visible section of the copper oil pressure line is taped with electrical tape.
I just couldn't take the ugly copper line!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Oil_pressure_taped.jpg
Boost gauge line mounted in upper IC pipe:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Boost_pressure_line1.jpg
Pic of the gauges...
Better pics later.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Gauges5.jpg
Turbo with custom 2.5" ambient elbow mounted:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_with_elbow1.jpg
Different angle:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_with_elbow2.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 10:57 PM

08-01-2007

IT LIVES!!!
Of course the wastegate is disconnected so there's no boost.
I'm heading out for dinner and some heat wrap. I'll post more later!

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:04 PM

Yep ONLYA6 was the first to see it! :grin:
Day 15
(07/31/2007 Recap)
My goal was to finish the car, but that didn't happen because I was too tired to install the tune and didn't want to mess anything up.
I got everything together fairly easily.
Only real suprise was when I cut into the coolant lines I thought were empty.
Yep, a bit of a mess.
I used 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8" heater hose "T" from Napa. See pic.
They barely didn't fit.. so I had to grind down the lip and then they fit perfectly and snug.
I was able to use some of the heat resistant wrap from the heat core lines on the turbo coolant lines.
I definitely needed that excess to protect the lines since they run nearly against the turbo manifold.

PICS
My car before exhaust install.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Car_side.jpg
My car rear shot:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Car_back.jpg
Heater hose T:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Heater_hose_T.jpg
Coolant lines installed:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_coolant_lines1.jpg
Oil return line:
5/8" ID. From Napa - sold by the foot.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_bottom4.jpg
Cool shot of the turbo:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_bottom9.jpg
Another:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo_bottom8.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:04 PM

Day 16
The car is complete except for the tune!
Friday I drive 3.5 hours to Columbus, OH to LaSota Racing.
The car is running well right now with the base, no-boost tune so I'm fully confident in making it there safely.
Most of the exhaust must be exiting through the wastegate because I can't hear the turbo at all yet.
The exhaust is a good bit louder than I expected, but I have a feeling it will quiet down considerably once the wastegate is closed.
I have no oil or coolant leaks, wohoo!
I do have some exhaust leaks I'll be fighting with, but both are at clamps and not at the manifold or downpipe.
There is a black plastic cover that spans the front underside of the car that isn't installed in the pics.
I will be reinstalling that after a couple days monitoring everything.
One potential issue is slowly dropping RPMs.
I know that's a sign of a vacuum leak so I'll try to hunt that down.
It could have something to do with not being fully tuned yet. I'll keep everybody updated on that.
The SCT tune was incredibly easy to install, but the longest 5 minutes of my life!
I'm sitting there in a 90* car praying the battery doesn't die and fry my computer!
I ended up buying some exhaust wrap for my header.
I'm definitely no pro at wrapping that stuff.
It's not as tight as they recommend, but hopefully it will help some.
I used stainless steel hose clamps to secure the wrap.
There's probably 40ft of that wrap left so I'll probably do the DP later.
I initally filled the car with cheapo Advance Auto 5w30 conventional oil.
I then drove around 10 miles and drained it.
The car was absolutely covered with metal dust, so I figured it was a good idea to do a quick flush of the oil just in case any airborne dust got into the engine.
It's now filled with Mobil One 10w30 fully synthetic.
PICS
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Front_shot1.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Front_shot2.jpg
Header wrapped:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Header_wrap1.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:05 PM

OK I'm back from LaSota Racing!
The good news is the car made 180.42whp and 176.37tq @5psi.
The bad news is it was at 5psi.
Also good news is I have no oil or coolant leaks!
I had 1 obvious vac leak but fixed that by plugging in a connection all the way.
I got that done before I drove to Columbus.
I seem to be having wastegate issues..
The boost is "fluttering" around 5psi.
I'm using the wastegate that came with this turbo.
(TBird guys read on)
If I try to manually pull on the wastegate actuator rod it pulls fairly easily..
If I pull on the rod of the older/rusty looking one it has significantly more resistance.
I assumed the freeer moving one was the better... was I right?
Is it possible the spring in this is bad and the exhaust is actually forcing the wastegate open??
Another issue I'm having is a backfire when I left off the gas from higher rpms in boost.
Don, my tuner didn't really seem to care about it, but it seems something isn't right there.
Maybe something with the boost fluctuating?
I have pics and video but need scott to download them off his cam for me.
Everybody gets to hear my annoying backfire.
My exhaust is also louder than I expected.
It's not too bad until the wastegate opens, then it drones like crazy around 3k rpm.
Conditions:
Dynojet dyno
8/3/207
94.81 *F
29.18 in-Hg
Humidity: 28%
SAE 1.04
Next steps:
Fix the boost issue.
Don says my current tune should work fine when I get the boost issue fixed, but just in case to monitor it with a wideband before going too nuts.
Anybody have a wideband I can bum or purchase?
If I buy one does anybody have a recommendation?
Fix my exhaust.
The section of exhaust crossing over the rear crossmember is rattling and driving me nuts.

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:06 PM

8-5-2007

Wohoo!!! What a shame the roads are wet tonight..
I hit just under 10psi (9.5 I'm assuming) in gears 1-3!
It takes up to 4k rpm or so to get there, so I'm still scratching my head about that.
I figured I'd hit full boost much lower, perhaps as low as 2k rpm.
Maybe the Tbird guys will chime in here.
I'm wonder if it's due to 2.0 liters vs 2.3 of the Tbird, or the wet roads causing such bad wheelspin that I lose that load on the engine.
I have not use a wideband on it yet.
I'm still backfiring some when I let off the throttle, so I'm obviously still on the rich side so I'm not overly concerned.
My wheel hop is terrible.
I'll be trying some urethane front control arm bushing soon in hopes of eliminating it.
If that doesn't do it I'll be fabbing up some traction bars.
I'm trying to avoid the drag strip until my wheel hop is completely gone.
I don't need a busted axle or trashed motor mounts.
Tbird guys: I can still move this actuator rod by hand, but it certainly takes more effort than the previous.
Does it still sound like I should be building boost earlier, and should I look into a brand new actuator?
Does somebody even make new actuators?
I still need to hook the lights up in m gauges.
I thought I'd be able to see them at night from the glow of my dash gauges, but no luck.
I'm looking forward to the next dyno day! :clap:

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:06 PM

8-13-2007

I'm driving the car daily and it's running OK, just not at it's full potential.
I ordered what I believe is a brand new IHI wastegate actuator..
I emailed every single IHI supplier on their website..
Most suppliers said they cannot get the actuator without the turbo, but a couple said they'd sell me remans.
Two suppliers said they could get them new, and one in particular was extremely friendly and helpful.
She measured the brand new actuator for me and it matches mine, and she looked at the pics I took of mine and said it looks the same.
So sight unseed I took the chance and ordered it.
I was waiting to post progress until I was 100% sure it was the correct part, but somebody asked so I'll post about it.
Also Tuesday I'll be doing a boost leak test.
Evobluebyyou will be helping me.
Neither of us believe that I have any serious boost leaks however.
I can clearly hear the wastegate opening too early.
For those of you with straight-through 3" exhausts you know what I'm talking about.
There is a noticable increase in the sound volume of the exhaust when it's not travelling through the turbine.
Oh I also purchased an Innovate LC-1 Wideband and square, red LCD display from www.dynotunenitrous.com (http://www.dynotunenitrous.com)
I caught word that they sell working returns at a discount..
If you've read any of this thread you know I jumped on that.
I emailed them and Dan quickly emailed me back saying to give him a call.
The next day I called Dan and he had on hand exactly what I was looking for.
I got it for $199 with free shipping, including the LCD unit.
Best of all he's giving a warranty with it.
From my short dealings I'd definitely recommend www.dynotunenitrous.com (http://www.dynotunenitrous.com).
Today I hit 11psi (around 6krpm) in the cool air, which may not be a good thing.
I have the wideband in hand but need to find time to install it.
The new wastegate should be here any day now.

I also ordered a 3" glasspack from www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com that I'll be using as a resonator to quiet my exhaust.
I'll also be rewelding the section of pipe going over my rear crossmember because it touches and rattles like crazy.
I can shove on it and it'll quit rattling for a day or so and then inevitably settle back down onto the crossmember.

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:08 PM

8-13-2007

Today I received my brand new wastegate actuator from:
Durabilt Div. Dura Products Co.
2 Bradford Place
Bradley, IL 60915-1260
1-815-939-1399
for $75 + $8.36 shipping.
Manual tranny PN: Ford # e7se9g438ab or IHI # 5t561
Auto tranny PN: Ford #e7se9g438bc or IHI # 5t562
The good news is I found a brand new WGA...
The bad news is I don't think I needed it.
The tension on the currently installed rod and the new rod are pretty much identical.
I didn't use any type of measuring device, but they're so close it really wasn't necessary.
Therefore I did not install the new one but reused the older one.
I previously had it shimmed slightly so the rod dropped in perfectly.
This time I removed the shim so I had to pull on the rod about 1/16" for it to set into the wastegate arm.
While looking at my "spare" turbo I had a revelation...
READ ON!!
I think I found the primary cause of my "progressive boost", AND one of the major differences between the Auto and Manual Tbirds with the IHI turbo.
1) The Auto has a significantly weaker WGA spring.
2) The actual turbo housing is different..
I can't believe I didn't catch it before I installed the turbo..
Looking at the WG outlet with the flap open, the Manual surface is nice and flat allowing a good seal for the WG arm.
The Auto has small grooves (maybe 8?) extending out in a sun ray-like pattern around the WG port.
I believe this allows boost pressure to leak out around the WG arm flap!
Unfortunately I do not have a photo of the auto WG port.
I'm hoping somebody else on here does and would be willing to share it.
In conclusion, I'm not sure what I'll do at the moment.
I don't think I'll be needing the new WGA.
I guess I'll try to send it back unless somebody on here wants to buy it from me at the same price.
As for accidentally installing an auto IHI turbo on my Focus, I guess I'll stick with it for now.
I just got it together, so I'm not itching to tear it back out and swap housings.
I'm sure I'll eventually swap housings. Most likey this year.
I went for a drive but it's dark out and can't really gauge whether or not the shim removal helped much.
PICS:
Manual WG port:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Manual_WG.jpg
Quick mock of the Auto WG port:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Auto_WG_mock.jpg
New WGA:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/New_WGA.jpg
New WGA stamped part #s:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/New_WGA_sn.jpg
Manual WGA vs Auto.
No part # anywhere on the Auto, and the vac nipple points a different direction.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Man_WGA_vs_Auto.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:08 PM

Dyno Vids from 8/4/2007
Since vids were requested.
The boost acts completely different now.
You can see in the Dyno_Boost_View vid how I it only hits about 5psi and fluttered around until 6k rpm when it finally decided to creep up to just under 10psi.
Now I'm hitting full boost about 3,100 rpm.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/th_Dyno_Boost_View.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/?action=view&current=Dyno_Boost_View.flv)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/th_Dyno_Engine_View.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/?action=view&current=Dyno_Engine_View.flv)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/th_Dyno_Rear_View.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/?action=view&current=Dyno_Rear_View.flv)

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:09 PM

8-14-2007

Today I performed a boost leak test with the help of evobluebyyou.
We found a boost leak in a place that I would never have dreamed - at the gasket for the throttle body plate rod.
Anytime we pressurized the system the little green gasket would pop out and leak boost.
If you own a turbo Duratec then check this gasket!
If you can see green at all then it has pushed loose of it's seat!
That was the only major boost leak we found, but that one is significant enough I think it is part of my boost issue.
I took some black RTV to basically glue the gasket into place.
The RTV is drying overnight so my car is still in pieces.
While I sealed the throttle body gasket evobluebyyou continued the boost leak test.
He demanded we use a paint can to plug the throttle body end of the piping, even after I said that was a bad idea. :whistle:
It actually worked quite well. :grin:
We quickly learned the gen 1 BOV opens at 6psi when there's no boost pressurizing the other side.
I'll post tomorrow the results of sealing that tb gasket.
I have a slight sputter at idle and I bet that's the problem.
I have just under 1,000 boosted miles. :)
The good news is my spark plugs look like new and have zero sign of issues in my tune!
The bad news is my stock clutch slips between in-boost shifts.
I saw this coming but was hoping to put it off a while.
I doubt I'll get to the clutch replacement until next spring though unless somebody has a urge to sponsor it. :grin:
I'll do a Torsen limited slip at the same time.
PICS
Boost leak tester cap:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Boost_tester.jpg
TB Gasket:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/TB_Gasket_Arrow.jpg
Spark plug:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Sparkplug.jpg
Paint can plug:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Paint_can.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:10 PM

9-3-2007

What I've been up to lately:
- Installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband with square led display.. still figuring out some issues though. I made a seperate thread for that issue.
- Moved the vac source of my boost gauge. Now it reads vac and boost.
- Wired up the lights for my gauges because I couldn't see them at night.
I spliced into the dimmable wires of the hvac controls so they dim with the rest of my lights.
- Added a 3" cheapo Summit Racing glasspack (also another thread).
Didn't do much, if anything, to lessen the drone.
I DID however refab the pipes going over my rear crossmember so there are NO more exhaust rattles!
- Routed my catch can vent filter down near the air filter. No more stinky hvac!
- Wrapped my downpipe
Upcoming plans for the next year:
- SPEC stage 3 clutch.
- Torsen Limited Slip Differential
- Something to cure wheel hop.. maybe poly mounts or a torque strap.
- Shorten (cut/weld) wastegate actuator rod to preload spring for even earlier spool
- Stiffer rear springs (has nothing to do with the turbo)
PICS
Innovate LC-1 unit:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/WB_Installed0.jpg
LC-1 grounds:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Grounds.jpg
LC-1 display.
It read 9.9 because it wasn't configured properly. Works perfectly now.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/AF_Gauge.jpg
Inside of a Summit Glasspack:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Summit_glasspack_out.jpg
Random turbo pic:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Turbo.jpg
Downpipe:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/DP_Wrapped1.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:13 PM

Pic of my car thanks to Teh Legacy:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/FocusZX5_2007.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:14 PM

Here's a pic of the Xcal-2 9-pin DIN cable pinout:
I figured I'd post it publicly since it's by request-only through SCT.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/Xcal2Wiring_Diagram.jpg

New pic:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/ZX5_PRP_10282007.jpg

sporadic

01-17-2008, 11:25 PM

What's new:

Original turbo died. Oily mess. Suspect oil pressure. Pics HERE (http://wvmotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232)
Added oil inlet restrictor and went from 10w30 to 5w30 for winter.
Rebuilt the spare turbo with new bronze bearings.
Turbo now spools to 11psi, but not dogging on it until I do more datalogging to check for knock.

FiReTRuCK

01-18-2008, 12:26 AM

details are the best thing about this thread.

Fordgasm

01-18-2008, 02:01 AM

GREAT write up dude!

Even tho we have diffrent cars, I will keep this thread in mind when I do my ZX2

WickedJester

01-19-2008, 02:02 PM

+1 on the write up.

sporadic

02-09-2008, 12:10 PM

Just an update.
After 5k miles my original turbo died and oil blew past the seals and into the exhaust.
I was only 1/2 mile from home so there were no adverse side effects.
I rebuilt the 2nd turbo I had using a kit from www.GPopShop.com (http://www.GPopShop.com) and it's working great.
I feared part of the issue was over-oiling, so I installed a .06" oil restrictor and am now running 5w30 oil.
It gets very cold here, and my oil pressure was very high with the 10w30 oil.

Here's a couple new pictures:

Burned oil on the exhaust side of the turbo:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/IHI_CrustyOil_1.jpg

Rebuild kit:
The Tbird IHI uses the Narrow bearings, not the wide.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/GPopShop_RebuildKit.jpg

I made my wastegate actuator rod adjustable:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/WGA_Adj_Mounted2.jpg

The first turbo I installed had cracks around the WG port.
The freshly rebuilt turbo has no cracks!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/sporadicmach/WG_Cracks.jpg

Lessons learned:
- When going with a used turbo, go ahead and rebuild it just to be safe.
- Use an oil line restrictor when your oil return line exists at or below the oil level in your oil pan.
- Don't preload your WGA too much. It increases boost. 1/4" preload put me at 11psi. Higher than I wanted for now. (I'm at 9.5psi)
- When using band-style exhaust clamps, tighten with an impact wrench. I could never get them tight enough by hand and they always leaked.
- 2" IC piping would have been sufficient. 2.5" has caused more clearance headaches than anything.
- Use T-bolt style clamps. I used these from the beginning and they've been great.
- If you live in a hilly area, make sure your tuner provides enough fuel for part-throttle boost.
No I didn't have any issues, but sometimes I'd like it to be a tad richer.
- Use a Exhaust Gas Temp gauge if you can afford one. I don't have one yet.
- Budget for a new, stronger clutch from the start. The stock one WILL slip at 9.5psi of boost.
- Always be nice to your wife, just in case you blow off an IC pipe and you need her to bring you tools. :derisive: